I was asked how to properly light someone that wears glasses.
((This is not gospel, but what I have found to work)).
Although this can be tricky, it all depends on your style and what you have available to work with.
If you're in a studio, it becomes much easier because it's merely a matter of getting the right angle (primarily by top lighting a subject/ reflecting off foam core into face). When dealing with children, do your best and pray. :) But top lighting is still the easiest way in the studio with kids and fill from the side(s) depending on the look that you want with soft boxes or foam core/ reflectors.
Natural Light--
Now, if you're on a budget, or just trying to get some snap shots at home. I highly suggest not worrying about any kind of lighting. Just put the ISO around 800 (if in low light around the house) and do your best with the aperture set at its widest setting (could be 1.2-- 4 depending on the quality of the lens, sometimes higher). Also, make sure your focal points are spot on your subject because depending on what your widest setting is, there can be little room for error. But the bright side? NO REFLECTION!
Pop-up Flash (aka: on camera flash)--
If you have a camera with a Pop-up flash, I consider this to be disastrous. (Not that the camera has one, but the final product). Anytime that I have used a Pop-up flash there is never a true consistency in my images as well as the colors always being off because its not strong enough to truly light the area of the subject so you have a mixed lighting situation. You can never really get the color temperatures even and correct in the image (look above). Also, there's no way to bounce light so all that you have is reflection in the glasses. Poor POOR quality image all around.
**If this is all over your head, I'd love to give you an in person tutoring session. Contact me for availability and prices.
External Flash with Gary Fong Dome--
This is where you can start to control the light somewhat. Simplest way to explain this is to bounce the light either straight up or up and towards the back of your head (like a 45 degree angle). Think of it as you want the light to fall on the subject's glasses in a perpendicular angle. So that it's not direct. If you can somewhat get this, you're golden. If only the rim reflects the light- just take it out in Photoshop. :)
Below is an example of direct flash (outside, obviously not indoors) with the Gary Fong Dome. Unfortunately these lovely ladies do not have glasses on, but I thought I would show the difference. I NEVER use my flash without the Dome on top. The quality without it is soooo 1990's. :P
Its amazing how much more professional the Dome helps your work to look.
((This is not gospel, but what I have found to work)).
Although this can be tricky, it all depends on your style and what you have available to work with.
If you're in a studio, it becomes much easier because it's merely a matter of getting the right angle (primarily by top lighting a subject/ reflecting off foam core into face). When dealing with children, do your best and pray. :) But top lighting is still the easiest way in the studio with kids and fill from the side(s) depending on the look that you want with soft boxes or foam core/ reflectors.
(Double click to see bigger)
Natural Light--
Now, if you're on a budget, or just trying to get some snap shots at home. I highly suggest not worrying about any kind of lighting. Just put the ISO around 800 (if in low light around the house) and do your best with the aperture set at its widest setting (could be 1.2-- 4 depending on the quality of the lens, sometimes higher). Also, make sure your focal points are spot on your subject because depending on what your widest setting is, there can be little room for error. But the bright side? NO REFLECTION!
Pop-up Flash (aka: on camera flash)--
If you have a camera with a Pop-up flash, I consider this to be disastrous. (Not that the camera has one, but the final product). Anytime that I have used a Pop-up flash there is never a true consistency in my images as well as the colors always being off because its not strong enough to truly light the area of the subject so you have a mixed lighting situation. You can never really get the color temperatures even and correct in the image (look above). Also, there's no way to bounce light so all that you have is reflection in the glasses. Poor POOR quality image all around.
**If this is all over your head, I'd love to give you an in person tutoring session. Contact me for availability and prices.
External Flash with Gary Fong Dome--
This is where you can start to control the light somewhat. Simplest way to explain this is to bounce the light either straight up or up and towards the back of your head (like a 45 degree angle). Think of it as you want the light to fall on the subject's glasses in a perpendicular angle. So that it's not direct. If you can somewhat get this, you're golden. If only the rim reflects the light- just take it out in Photoshop. :)
Below is an example of direct flash (outside, obviously not indoors) with the Gary Fong Dome. Unfortunately these lovely ladies do not have glasses on, but I thought I would show the difference. I NEVER use my flash without the Dome on top. The quality without it is soooo 1990's. :P
Its amazing how much more professional the Dome helps your work to look.
wow, the difference is pretty intense.
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